Traditional Sicilian Easter cookie? Its name is Pupi or Cuddura - Sicilian (2024)

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by Clara Amico

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Traditional Sicilian Easter cookie? Its name is Pupi or Cuddura - Sicilian (1)

A symbol of rebirth can also have a delicious taste! This is the case of Pupu cu l’ovu, also known as Cuddura cu l’ova and considered a real work of art of Sicilian pastry making, as well as one of the tastiest of the traditional Sicilian cookies related to Easter.

The egg embedded in the delicious shortcrust pastry of this traditional Sicilian Easter cookie symbolizes life flourishing and nature awakening, a concept closely connected to the Christian religion and to Jesus’ resurrection. In this period are consumed chocolate eggs, of any kind, but in Sicily is still alive the tradition of the preparation of Pupi cu l’ova, given as a wish for wellness and prosperity.

According to the places where it is prepared, this Sicilian Easter cake takes on different names, also changing in shape and sometimes in the use of ingredients. But enough talking! Let’s discover everything, but really everything, about Pupi cu l’ova or Cuddura cu l’ova!

From Palermo to Catania: many names, a unique tradition

Born in Palermo, this cake has different names according to the place where it is prepared, but the tradition of Pupu cu l’ovu is spread all over Sicily and it has been handed down for centuries from generation to generation.

For example, in Trapani, Pupu cu l’Ovu is known as “campanaru” or “cannatuni“, in Messina, “cannileri“, in Catania “cuddura cu l’ovu“, in Agrigento it is known as “panaredda” and in Ragusa as “palummedda“.

Many different names, of course, which come to life from the different shapes assumed by these traditional Sicilian Easter sweets, which can be in the shape of lamb, sheep or dove (symbols of peace), but also of woven baskets and festive bells.

In addition, each name and shape recalls a particular wish. The bell, for example, refers to the hymn “Gloria“, played by the festive bells on Christian Easter Day. The basket, the so called “panareddu” is a wish for abundance and prosperity.
The dove, instead, symbolizes peace and it is a wish of hope for a new rebirth.

In the past this cake was given to children and to each of them was associated a different form. The “pupa“, that is the doll, was destined to little girls, “u jadduzzu“, the rooster, was offered to little boys.

But there was also the heart shaped one, the perfect gift for lovers, offered as a symbol of mutual love between partners.

In short, every shape has its own meaning.

Cuddura cu l’ova: origin and meaning of the name

If in Palermo this Easter cake is known with the name of “pupu cu l’ovu”, in eastern Sicily is much more common the term “cuddura”. But where does this name come from?

The name cuddura derives from ancient Greek κολλύρα (kollýra), literally “loaf of bread”. The name cuddura is common in many regions of southern Italy, that is in all those places where ancient Greeks prepared and brought the tradition of particular flat bread offered to gods.

In Sicilian dialect it also has the meaning of crown, necklace, doughnut which because of its typical circular shape allowed peasants and wayfarers to easily carry it with them during their travels by hanging it to their arm or to a stick.

How pupu cu l’ovu or cuddura cu l’ova is made

Pupu cu l’ovu, that is “puppet with egg”, is a cookie of the Easter time typical of Palermo. They are loaves of bread or sweet pastries of different sizes and shapes, over and within which are enclosed hard-boiled eggs.

Of ancient peasant tradition, to unite the various versions of pupu cu l’ovu is the constant presence of a hard-boiled egg, symbol of life and rebirth, which is fixed in the short pastry usually with the whole shell.

Pupi con l’ova (or Cuddura cull’ova) are Sicilian cookies typical of Easter time made of short pastry decorated with hard boiled eggs, sugar icing and colored sugars.

Still today, this typical sweet of peasant origin keeps its humble origin, its characterizing note is given by the simplicity of the ingredients. Originally it was a bread dough decorated with eggs: you will not find almonds, pistachios or candied fruit but only “poor” ingredients: flour, eggs, milk, sugar, lard and of course hard-boiled eggs in the center and colored sugars to decorate.

Traditional Sicilian Easter cookie? Its name is Pupi or Cuddura - Sicilian (2)

Pupi cu l’ova: a hint of history

The history of Pupu cu l’ova is linked to the Holy Easter and to the reform of the Gregorian calendar in the year 1582.
With the reform of the Gregorian calendar, Easter day always falls on Sunday and it is easy to understand how the egg, symbol of nature that opens the new life, becomes the bearer of the Christian values of Easter.

For the Catholic religion, for example, Lent is a period of renunciation.

And it is precisely during the period of Lent, in mid-April, that in Sicily they used to eat only poor foods. No meat or eggs. Yes, and yet eggs are the main ingredient of this traditional dessert!

We explain why. The eggs of this particular Sicilian Easter cake, originally, were not eaten but only used to decorate cookies, which were offered as gifts to friends and relatives.

How to prepare pupi cu l’ova

In the past pupi cu l’ova were prepared with leftover bread dough and decorated with cooked eggs, often colored. The bread was modeled with the most varied and curious shapes according to the place.

In the past it was the grandmothers or however the old people who handed down the recipe. Moreover, these traditional Sicilian cookies of Easter, despite their humble origins, were however a rich and substantial dish, were carried by shepherds or wayfarers during their travels.

The dough was molded into a circular, doughnut shape, to be conveniently slipped onto a stick or arm.

In time, from a poor dish, it has been transformed into a whimsical and characteristic traditional dish. Compared to the classic decoration with sesame and poppy seeds, new decorative elements have been added to the cake, such as the sugar, egg white and lemon glaze that was once spread with a chicken feather.

In any case, there are many variations of pupi cu l’ova or cuddura cu l’ova recipe, made with various pastes but with one constant, eggs!

Ready to prepare your best version of pupu cu l’ovu or cuddura cu l’ova? Discover the recipe and surprise your loved ones with a very special Sicilian dessert.

And if you want to prepare a really tasty Easter Menu, in perfect Sicilian style, then discover our menu with all the best Easter recipes!

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Traditional Sicilian Easter cookie? Its name is Pupi or Cuddura - Sicilian (3)

Clara Amico

A full-time content creator. I create text that Google likes, but mostly people like.

I remember making these my children’s help when they were young and give them to relatives whom we celebrated Easter with. This year I will surprise my family by making them again “by myself”, this tradition was passed on to me by my mother in-law who was Sicilian.

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We made these again this year, my mom would always make them to give to friends and family, she called it BoobooGallo haha, it’s a way I keep my mom with me today making these each year

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Traditional Sicilian Easter cookie? Its name is Pupi or Cuddura - Sicilian (2024)
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